Raising

Health is of the utmost importance to us, here at Amore. Tied with Temperament, it is something I will NOT “skimp” on. If you have never lost a dog to a health issue, especially one that is 100% avoidable, then 1. consider yourself very lucky, and 2. I guarantee that if you had, you would have a different outlook on this particular topic when it comes to breeding dogs. I am VERY passionate about health and so this drop down will likely be lengthy. Prepare yourself! 

Rant: I have experienced the downside to health issues with my heart dog, Missy, who ended up having (undiagnosed) Fanconi Syndrome, a 100% preventable breed disease and it was the most impactful and painful experience.  She also had liver disease and ultimately liver failure. Though she lived to be an outstanding almost 15 years old, she is the reason I am such a diehard for health testing. Just because a dog “has never had issues” doesn’t mean it’s not hidden within the lines, nor does it mean you shouldn’t test just to be safe. I hear this time and time again. Especially with eye exams and thyroid evaluations. “I have never had the issue in my lines, for 30+ years I’ve been breeding.” Well, have you tested it religiously? or just Once or twice in 30 years, and it happened to be normal on the select few dogs you tested? Lucky you!! That doesn’t mean anything, and it doesnt mean that it’s not in there, laying dormant. Mother nature is a tricky gal and without testing each dog, you will just simply never know.  I am not comfortable with “what I dont know wont hurt me” because it will and I would not forgive myself if i produced an unhealthy dog due to negligence. Mother nature is one thing- you can do all the health testing and still produce affected dogs. Thats ok, there is no way to predict that, but at least you went to every effort to avoid it. Unlike just simply not testing for it because “you could” end up with a dog that cant be bred and that would be devastating. (I know, ask me how I know.) but its not worth the risk. Its not something I’m willing to gamble on, personally. I have tested every breeding dog of mine since I started back in 2010 with my first show puppy, and none of them have ever had thyroid issues, but I still test every. single. one. Doesnt mean it couldnt pop up. Same with eyes. Most of my dogs have passed all eye exams, but one. And I am thankful I tested because I had that one that failed. And as devastated as I was, to lose not only his genetics but incredible diversity of a dog in soooo many aspects both temperament, and ability to do things most Basenjis have never done, I had to retire him in good faith.  But… had i not tested, he would have potentially passed that on and that would be on me. 

The ONLY way to be certain is to have the tests performed on EACH DOG that is being considered for breeding. 

I will break it down for those of you who are interested in learning the health tests that should be performed, at which ages, and why its so important to test for them. This isn’t just about the dog in front of you, this is about the living, breathing little heartbeats that are about to follow if you breed this dog. I, for one, am ALWAYS trying to produce healthier, happier puppies with each litter I plan and breed. 
Health testing is absolutely no exception. 

Let’s start with the basics for gaining health testing insight and successfully health testing breeding stock. 

What is OFA: OFA stands for Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. It is a central database that collects and publishes health testing results for purebred dogs. It allows breeders and buyers to verify health results for Hips, Eyes, Thyroid, and genetic diseases such as Fanconi and PRA.  You can search OFA’s public results by visiting: www.ofa.org.  How to search: at the top right, there is a search bar (“Search OFA Health Tested Dogs”). Type in the dog’s registration name that you want to look up [ex: you can copy and paste Nemo’s reg name in the bar as a trial: Amore’s Reach for the Stars] It will pull up a clickable dog’s name so when the search shows his name, click on it. Now you can see all of his health test results, along with CHIC, which I’ll talk about shortly. It also shows, for this particular dog’s example, that his eyes did not pass and he is ineligible for an OFA number, because he failed them. In these cases, this dog should NOT be bred, which he wasn’t- as devastating of a decision as that was for me.

What is CHIC: CHIC stands for Canine Health Information Center. It is a program jointly operated by the OFA and breed parent clubs (like the Basenji Club of America [BCOA]). A dog earns a CHIC number when it has completed all required breed-specific health tests and the results are publicly available- whether they passed or not. 

CHIC is about transparency, not perfection. CHIC shows that a breeder is committed to honest health screening and long term breed preservation. So please understand that dogs can gain their CHIC number, even if they do not pass all tests. It is UP TO YOU, THE BREEDER/BUYER to do your due diligence and research on each dog that is being bred to ensure they are passing their results. Utilize the OFA website, inform yourself of what to look for (which tests to look for and which results are passing) and only choose puppies from passing parents for a higher probability that your puppy will have similar genetics.

To qualify for a CHIC number, Basenjis must have completed the following tests: Side note: I have a page HEALTH specific to these tests

Fanconi Syndrome – A serious inherited kidney disorder that affects Basenjis. It damages the proximal renal tubules in the Kidneys, which are responsible for reabsorbing vital nutrients and electrolytes from urine back into the body. When those tubules fail, the nutrients are lost in the urine instead, leading to severe imbalances and potentially fetal complications if untreated. Onset is 3-7 years, its a genetic mutation (autosomal recessive inheritance), and early signs include: excessive drinking and urination, weight loss, weakness, muscle wasting, and poor coat condition. It is a simple DNA cheek swab test (direct gene test available through OFA ($65), or Embark – which is actually the cheaper alternative since it also tests for a couple other health tests, along with gives genetic information about the dog). It can mimic diabetes due to sugar in the urine, but blood sugar remains normal. Without treatment, dogs can suffer from organ failure, seizures, or death. There is no cure but with early diagnosis, Dr Gonto’s Fanconi Treatment Protocol is a lifelong structured supplement-based treatment protocol that helps affected dogs manage the symptoms and prolong the quality of life. It does NOT reverse kidney damange, but can significantly slow progression and MUST be followed exactly and tailored to each individual dog. It is distributed for FREE by request from BCOA and BRAT. 

TESTING for this disease will 100% avoid affliction AND save both the owner and the poor dog lots of misery, pain, management, and money.  

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) is a group of inherited degenerative diseases of the retina that lead to gradual vision loss and eventual blindness. 

PRA is bilateral (affects both eyes) and typically starts with night blindness and progresses into daytime vision loss, which progresses to complete blindness over months to years. Basenjis most commonly exhibit the late onset autosomal recessive form, which there is a test for. 

PRA affects

The test is a direct test, and is available through OFA ($65) or, as stated above, in the Embark DNA kit, which also tests for other health tests including Fanconi and gives genetic information about the dog, including coat coloring and more!) Because other forms of PRA or eye diseases may also exist in Basenjis and are not DNA testable, responsible breeders also do:

CAER Eye Examination with a certified Ophthalmologist. CAER stands for Companion Animal Eye Registry (formerly known as CERF) and is an eye examination done by an eye doctor for dogs. They screen for inherited eye disorders that may affect the dog’s vision or be passed onto offspring. They can detect early stage or silent diseases that are not visible to the naked eye. They also certify that the dog is free from observable hereditary eye conditions at the time of breeding. Its important to understand that not all eye diseases are DNA testable and many conditions only show up later in life, sometimes after the dog has already passed on the defect. 

The Step-by-Step Process:
      Pupil Dilation – Vet uses special drops ot dilate the dog’s pupils so they can view the back of the eye clearly. For Basenjis, they look at the eyes before dilation, and after dilation.
     Slit-Lamp Biomicroscopy – a bright light and microscope are used to examine the Cornea (outer layer), Lens (for cataracts), Iris and Anterior Chamber of the eye. 
     Indirect Ophthalmoscopy – a special lens and light are used to view the retina and optic nerve at the back of the eye.
     Full Eye Assessment – They check for Retinal Folds, Cataracts(juvenile or adult onset), Colobomas (Optic Nerve malformations), Distichiasis (abnormal eyelashes), Retinal atrophy or degeneration, PRA (visible signs, even if late-onset), Microphthalmia (abnormally small eyes), and PPMs (Persistent Pupillary Membranes) 

Special note on PPM’s- during fetal development, the eye has a structure called the pupillary membrane, a delicate web of tissue that supplies nutrients to the developing lens. This membrane is supposed to disappear before birth. In some dogs, bits of this membrane remain after birth and are called PPMs. These fine strands of tissue are visible across the pupil when the eye is examined under magnification. They can appear as Iris to Iris which are most common in Basenjis and often harmless- They do receive a passing eye exam if these are present. Iris to Cornea, which can cause corneal opacities and scarring and is NOT passable on an eye exam. Or Iris to Lens, which can cause cataracts or lens opacities. These are also NOT passable on an eye exam. Dogs with the later two should NOT be bred. Dogs with Iris to Iris are fine to be bred, but careful pair selection is a good idea! More severe PPMs can cause corneal clouding, lens abnormalities, and visual obstruction. PPMs are diagnoses only through a CAER eye exam by a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist. 

Hip Evaluation from an OFA approved Radiologist. OFA provides standardized evaluations of hip conformation to help breeders avoid producing dogs with hip dysplasia, a potentially painful and degenerative joint condition. It is a malformation of the hip joint where the femoral head (top of the thigh bone) doesn’t fit snugly into the acetabulum (hip socket), which overtime can cause arthritis, pain and mobility issues. It is influenced by genetics, though it is polygenic (“many” “genes”), which means that environment and diet also have their roles.

How hips are evaluated:
-Hip evaluations require an X-ray (radiograph) performed by a licensed veterinarian, and most of the time sedation is required for accuracy – though they do have the option to do no-sedation.  The dog is positioned on its back with its legs extended straight and hips angled just right, a precise and standardized position. 
-Submission to OFA- The radiograph is sent to OFA along with: Dog’s registration name/number, date of birth, microchip number, owner information, and payment. 
-Expert evaluation – The X-ray is reviewed by THREE independent OFA, board certified veterinary radiologists . Each scores the hips individually and blindly- meaning they dont know how the other two scored the hips. A consensus is formed and recorded. 
     Hips are rated as: Excellent (ideal joint structure), Good (Slight deviation, still strong), Fair (minor irregularities), Mild Dysplasia (clear signs of subluxation/changes), Moderate (obvious malformation), Severe (serious disease, arthritis present), and lastly they can be considered: Borderline 
    Borderline means the hips are not clearly normal or abnormal; theyre on the edge between passing and failing and unaable to confidently classify them. The hips may be very slight irregularities or suspected joint laxity. The position of the Xray could also come into play. There could be no clear evidence of arthritis or definitive dysplasia but are not clean enough to confidently be considered normal.  It is suggested that you wait 6 months and retake the radiograph. Sometimes joint structures become clearer with maturity, especially in large or slow maturing breeds. DO NOT breed a dog rated borderline without further evaluation. Recheck at age 3+ to confirm whether changes lean towards normal or dysplastic. While borderline hips arent an automatic disqualification, they are a red flag. If bred to another dog with subpar hips, the risk of producing puppies with mild or moderate hip dysplasia increases significantly, especially in polygenic traits such as hip genetics. 
Consider PennHIP for more quantitative measures (measures joint laxity) and evaluate family hip history before making a breeding decision. Breeders who strongly believe in health testing, including hip evaluations will have access to family hip history because this isnt the first dog that has had hip evaluations- another prime reason why its so important to do. 

Hips must be performed at 2 years of age or older, in order to get permanent certification (24 mos). However, preliminary evaluations can be done as early as 4 months, however they are not accepted for CHIC number. Ideally, you want to perform the certification once growth plates have closed, when the dog is fully grown, and hormonal influences are at a baseline (not during or near heat cycles or pregnancy.)
     Hormonal Laxity (especially estrogen)- During heat cycles estrogen levels rise dramatically. This causes ligamentous laxity, especially around the hips and pelvis. The pelvic ligaments, espeially sacroiliac and surrounding soft tissues, become looser to prepare for potential mating or whelping. This laxity can mimic or exaggerate signs of hip laxity, falsely suggesting mild dysplasia or subluxation even in dogs with genetically good hips. 
     Pregnancy Effects – the hormone relaxin is released during pregnancy to help loosen the birth canal. Like Estrogen, it affects connective tissue- especially in the hips and pelvis. Xrays taken during pregnancy or shortly after whelping may show excess movement in the hip joint, falsely lowering the evaluation grade. Additionally, the physical pressure from growing fetuses can distort pelvic position and affect radiographic positioning. 
     Postpartum Weakness – After birth, lactation, physical strain, and hormonal readjustment may still affect join stability for weeks or months. OFA recommends waiting at least 8-12 weeks after weaning to allow hormonal and muscular systems to return to baseline before taking hip radiographs. 

Suggestions: Evaluate hips in between heats, ideally mid-cycle when hormones are stable. If a dog was just in heat or had a litter, wait 3-6 months before evaluation. Avoid xrays 3-4 weeks before and 8-12 weeks after heat cycle or whelping. Getting evaluations at the wrong time may result in false diagnosis of hip dysplasia, lead to unnecessary removal from a breeding program, prevent healthy fenetics from being passed on, and delay responsible planning on a breeding cycle.  

 Thyroid Evaluation is done to test for (typically) hypothyroidism, which is mostly apparent in dogs; (while hyperthyroidism is mostly apparent in cats- though rare cases can be seen reversely.) The thyroid gland produces hormones (primarily T4 and T3) that regulate metabolism. When the thyroid doesnt function correctly, such as cases of hypothyroidism, it can affect the dog’s energy level, weight, coat and skin health, fertility, behavior and neurological function, immune system function; and in breeding dogs, undiagnosed thyroid dysfunction can lead to infertility or irregular heat cycles, miscarriages or poor conception rates, weak or poorly developed puppies, behavior issues in offspring, increased riskl of autoimmune conditions being passed down. 

A full thyroid panel includes Total T4 (Thyroxine) which measures the overall level of circulating T4, Free T4 (by equilibrium dialysis- a more accurate measure of useable T4 in the bloodstream), TSH (Thyroid Stimulating Hormone- evaluates how the pituitary gland is stimulating the thyroid) and Thryoglobulin Autoantibodies (TgAA- screens for autoimmune thyroiditis, a heritable autoimmune disease that attacks the thyroid gland). Many vets also assess T3 and Free T3 in the comprehensive panel. the OFA Thyroid Panel is the gold standard for breeding dogs and is interpreted in collaboration with approved laboratories. 

Results can show: Normal Function (healthy and a good breeding candidate), Low T4 with normal TSH (possible euthyroid sick syndrome- temporary suppression due to illness, stress, medication, but not true hypothyroidism), Low T4 with elevated TSH and positive TgAA (strong indication of autoimmune thyroiditis, inheritable and not ideal for breeding), and High TgAA in a dog with normal T4 (early stage autoimmune disease that may progress. 

Initial thyroid screening should ideally be done after 2 years of age, and before the first breeding. Retesting should be done every 1-2 years, or before each breeding if previous results were borderline or age related changes are a concern. Postpartum thyroid function can temporarily shift due to hormonal changes, retest 3-6 months after whelping for an accurate baseline. 

DO NOT test while in heat or pregnant as this often gives inaccurate readings. This is why it is vital to have planned breedings, and ensure all health tests are done PRIOR to breeding, to ensure no skewed or inaccurate results are recorded. 

Autoimmune thyroiditis is inherited and can appear healthy and still pass this predisposition on to puppies. This is why testing apparently healthy dogs is essential. 

If a dog is positive for TgAA or hypothyroidism, they should be removed from breeding, or (not advised) bred but iwth full disclosure and strategic pairing based on genetic diversity goals. 

Subclinical hypothyroidism (where outward signs are mild or absent) can still affect focus, trainability, anxiety levels, and sudden aggression or irritability. 

Temperament is one of the most critical – yet often underestimated- traits in dogs, especially when it comes to breeding decisions. It affects not only a dog’s quality of life, but also the safety, trainability, and compatibility with its family. That is why temperament is our #1 for us, here at Amore. Put it plainly, if you cant live with a dog because its temperament is terrible, why breed dogs at all.  

Let’s dive in. Temperament refers to a dog’s natural disposition – how it reacts to the world, processes stimuli, and interacts with humans and other animals. 

It includes traits like:
-Confidence vs feafulness
-Friendliness vs aloofness
-Prey drive
-Reactivity
-Adaptability to new situations
-Tolerance of handling
-Ability to cope with and manage stress
-Energy level and trainability
-Aggression or guarding instincts

Think of temperament as the emotional and behavioral “baseline” a dog brings into the world

Temperament is STRONGLY influenced by genetics, so do not let anyone fool you… Certain behavioral traits (like shyness, boldness, prey drive, sound sensitivity) are inheritable to varying degrees. Temperament can often be predictable within lines of dogs, for ex: both parents are calm and friendly- puppies are more likely to inherit similar traits. Likewise, parents are nervy, skiddish and aggressive, puppies are likely to inherit similar traits. In some breeds like the Basenji, specific temperament traits, such as aloofness or cat-like independence, are breed typical and genetically coded. But Breeders still continue to try to improve with each generation, and some are doing phenomenal jobs of creating the most friendly, well rounded Basenjis out there! 

Dogs with poor, unstable temperaments may develop fear-based aggression, resource guarding, or reactivity- all of which can result in bites or dangerous behavior. Not only is it important to produce well-temperamented dogs, its also important for all members of the family to understand canine body language so that dangerous situations like these can be avoided- through reading the warning signs given from dogs. Dogs “whisper” at first (a side eye, avoidance, licking lips, turning away, visible signs of discomfort), and then when their desperate cries for help and understanding go ignored, they start to “yell” (growling, nipping, air biting, actual biting, full blown attacks). We highly advise learning body language, because they dont speak English, and we dont all speak dog. It’s like you going to a different country and someone speaking to you and you having no idea what theyre saying! Learn the language, improve the bond!

Every breed has a defined temperament standard, just like coat, size, and structure. A Basenji is poised, curious, intelligent but can be aloof- but not normally clingy and should not be aggressive. Breeding dogs that deviate too far from the expected behavior weakens the breed’s identity. We should all be striving for perfect temperament. 

We observe temperament of our breeding pairs, and any other dogs within the lines, when we are able. We are looking for friendly, laid back, confident, snuggle hounds (as I call them) that are easy to live with and not aggressive. Dogs that can do well in most environments, and that are able to handle stress, strangers, confinement, and new environments with ease and adaptability. We keep in touch with all previous puppy owners so that we can receive feedback on how they are doing and any pros and cons that they are experiencing, along with helping them through the struggles and celebrating the wins with them! We keep records of temperaments and we also do temperament testing on puppies. 

We use Puppy Culture protocols, Avidog protocols, Breeder Better Dogs protocols, and were always finding new ways to help ensure the next generation has the best start possible! 

Environmental influences are also able to impact temperament (both in good and bad ways). Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) is one such way to improve the temperament of a puppy through environmental stimulation. This is done during the critical first 3-16 days of life and is crucial to any growing puppy.  There will be more on ENS below. Experiences, handling, exposure to people, places and sounds influence whether a puppy’s inherited tendencies become strengths or challenges.

Dogs with solid, stable temperaments are easier to train, more adaptable, and less likely to be surrendered. They become reliable family companions. Whether the goal is conformation, performance, therapy work, or companion animals – temperament determines capability. 

Evaluating a dog’s structure – its bone, body proportions, angulation, movement, and alignment- is a crucial part of responsible breeding. Structure affects a dog’s health, function, longevity, and ability to perform the job it was bred for. 

Structure refers to the dog’s skeletal and muscular framework, and how those parts work together in movement. It includes proportions (height to length ratio), Angulation (front assembly including shoulder layback, rear assembly including hips and hock angulation), Topline (back and spine alignment), Chest and ribcage development, tail set, neck length, bone length and strength, movement (gait), which is the ulitimate test of good structure.  

A well structured dog moves smoothly, efficiently, and without strain, which is vital for long term health and performance. 

How to evaluate structure
 1. Look at the dog stacked, via side view.
   – Topline should be smooth. Backline (often mistaken as topline) should be level with a high tailset
   – Nice, visible second thigh
   – Neck should flow smoothly into the shoulders without abrubt angles
   – Shoulder layback should be well laid back shoulders (roughly 45 degrees) which helps with reach and fluid movement.
   – Upper arm length should be equal to the scapula, for proper front movement
   – Front legs should be straight when viewed from the front and side, with elbows tight to the body
   – Hind angulation should be balanced with front angulation. Look at the bend at the stifle and hock. Hocks should be well let down (meaning not too long from hock to ground, as they are endurance runners and the hock joint should be closer to the ground to     ensure they are able to run for long distances without fatigue.
   -Feet should be tight, have tight toes (neither splayed or flat), be well trimmed for proper alignment of structure, and point forward and not in any inward or outward direction
   -Tail should be tight against the back, and laying on either side in a tight curl, that is high on the back with a nice shelf
   – Ears should be small and hooded, and eyes should be dark and far seeing
   – Outline should be square but appearing high on the leg
   – There should be a point of chest and a point of buttocks
   -The overall appearance should give a clear “Basenji” type view and the dog should “look” like a Basenji

I like to look at the dog and draw 3 lines in which I evaluate balance – as described by Pat Hastings of Puppy Puzzle. 
   1. where the backline is level, draw a line from point of nose, and go well past the tail.
   2. Where the withers meet the body, draw a straight line down to the ground along the front legs.
   3. Where the point of buttocks meets the tail base, draw a line straight down to the ground. 
The head should be completely in front of lines 1 and 2.  the rear toes should start exactly where line 3 hits the ground
If you have deviations from these, the dog is not balanced. Be honest with yourself and dont tweak them for subpar dogs.

2. Evaluate movement- Coming and Going
   -Front legs should come straight foward in movement, not paddling or crossing. 
   – No elbow flipping or excessive motions
   -Hocks should move in a straight line, not cow hocked (hocks close) or bow legged (hocks far apart)
   – Movement should be parallel and powerful

3. Gait evaluation (from the side) 
   -The best test of structure is movement. You can fake a stack, but bad structure will fall apart when its put into motion
   -Watch the dog at a trot, running at a nice, natural pace
   – Looking for Reach (front extension), Drive (rear propulsion), Balance (the front and rear should move in sync) with no wasted motion inefficiencies which lead to fatigue and injury
   -a dog with correct structure will appear to float effortlessly

4. Hands on Examination
   – Scapula to upper arm length
   -Rib spring and depth of chest
   -Pelvis angle and muscle tone
   -Tail set and croup slope

Avoiding:
over-angulation or overly straight rears and fronts
Roached, dipped, or swayed backs
Short upper arms (which will limit front reach)
Pigeion toes or easty-westy feet
Restricted movement or pounding gait
unbalanced front vs rear
snippy, narrow faces
big ears and round or light eyes
low tailsets
short necks
cathedral chests or no chests
bad angulations 
loose, floppy tails- if able
over or underbites