The Puppy Culture Journey
One Litter, Determination, and a Better way of Life.
WEEKS ONE AND TWO! (3 to 16 days)
Early Neurological Stimulation
~ Each Individual puppy is stimulated in 5 different areas, for 5 seconds per area, to create a puppy with stronger heart rates and beats, stronger adrenal system, and the ability to cope with stress and life and to be better resistant to disease!
~The Following are the 5 different areas needed for Early Neurological Stimulation
1. Head Held Up
2. Head Held Down
3. Supine Position
4. Tactile Stimulation
5. Thermal Stimulation
Time of stimulation is 5 seconds.
Introduction to Goats Milk and Puppy Mush
When we first introduced the puppies to the milk (at about 2ish weeks) most don't seem to interested in it at all, while a couple took a dabble to it but then lost interest as well. They will look at it and some will lick a little, but they don't seem to make a dent in the milk (meanwhile mother was gulping it down faster than the puppies could decide whether they wanted it or not. LOL) We decided to skip giving the milk until closer to 3 weeks, when we figured they would have more of an interest. We plan to give the milk at or shortly before 3 weeks as the next go round.
Introduction to Puppy Recall (through feeding sessions)
When puppies are very young, and we start introducing them to mush, we also introduce a recall! By introducing the recall very young and when they receive mush, the puppy will develop a reaction, such as Pavlov's dog. (He would ring the bell, give the dog food, and repeat this every time he fed the dog, eventually he'd ring the bell and the dog would salivate with no food around!) The dog would have a physiological response as if food were present, even if the dog were never given food! And This is hughly beneficial to us because we can use this type of classically conditioned response to train puppies to be the best that they can be! We use this for Clicker Training (to be touched on later on) and with food, because By introducing and continuing to use the "Puppy Call" as we feed them, this "sound/call" drives them to have a solid recall! Eventually, we will wean out the repetitive "Pup Pup Puppy" and replace it with "Pup Puppy Come!" and then just (higher voiced) "come!" and this will ensure an amazing recall for the life of the dog! (when carried on through adulthood!)
Introducing Nail Triming and the Dremel
Introduction to the new weaning pen!
Here we also have the noisy tunnel which they were gladly exploring! (though not in this particular video) and i also added in a little "Startle and Recovery" when i shake the tunnel to make it make sounds to startle them. During the 3rd to 4th week of life, the startle recovery is vital! This is the period in time where they have no true fear response so by startling and letting them recover, it gives them the best chance at being able to recovery from frightening and stressful things in the future as an adult, without causing any true fear responses because they dont have the fear at this age! It's a win win!!
They are so cute! :) Are just about right at 3 and a half weeks old.
These puppies are so happy to be introduced to their new weaning pen! They are just about 2 and a half weeks old and are starting to crowd the whelping box.
This was the very first time in the weaning pen (first one is small, second one is bigger) and their reactions are so much fun! We have a potty area, a play area, and a sleeping area (we recommend this set up for any puppy, especially when they arrive in their new home. This would be in the form of an Xpen, a crate, and a potty area)
These guys warm my heart so much, I just cant get enough of them :)
Here they are starting to chew on and investigate each other. This week they have been nibbling and gnawing on each other, they have found each other now and its so entertaining to watch!
We tried to get "Franky" the other Basenji in our house to come and play along, but he didnt really feel like it. lol so he went downstairs instead.
They are wobbly and unstable on their feet at this age, but are doing so well considering! lol So funny, they look like little dogs now, not just mounds of fur and bones ;)
Socialization with New People
We had a puppy socialization party where a couple friends came over and we held and played with puppies. Unfortunately I didnt think to get a video! But I got a few pics of the pups being held, etc. We did this at a day after 3 weeks. Personally, I think we maybe should have waited a few days or more longer because all they wanted to do was sleep, so they didn't really do much. I'm not sure how much it helped, But its the thought that counts, right? ;)
Next time we will be making the introduction at 3.5 weeks instead as i think being a little older will help with them being physically more able to do better and will likely achieve better results...well see! The puppies are currently at 3.5 weeks now and are doing MUCH better at wanting to be physical. Here is a video of the puppies finally wanting to interact (with me) and looking into my eyes and at my face. They melt my heart with their little eyes of innocence!
Introduction to Potty Training
When the puppies are 2-3 weeks old, we introduce a small cardboard box that has equine bedding pellets in it. The "potty box" is introduced at this age, because once puppies are able to "move" themselves, by walking around (even if slightly) they will move away from their bed to go potty.
Dogs are naturally clean and want to keep their bed/home area clean, which is why, in a sense, it is so easy to potty train. So, we introduce the puppies this early so they can get used to the idea, even though most of their attempts are futile. But as they get from 2-3 weeks old, they get a lot better at using the box. This year, by 3 weeks old, the cardboard box was nearly soiled at the bottom from continuous use (even though we change the pellets out daily.)
Once we move them into the weaning pen, we usually graduate from cardboard to either a plastic under the bed storage bin or, like we are using this year, a giant crate pan (that goes in the bottom of a dog crate -- we currently are using 48") filled with the bedding pellets. Of course they are still underdeveloped in potty training, so by picking them up and placing them on the pellets when they are about to, or are currently going, (without any words spoken (normally)) does go a long way to reinforcing that the pellets are the place to go! :) Eventually, they wont need to be picked up and placed in the pellets, they'll naturally seek them out to relieve themselves!
Startle and Recovery
Introducing a new toy daily
Introduction to Challenges
Conditioning a puppy to a training marker (Clicker)
Introduction to other Pets
Teaching puppies to offer behaviors
Teaching the puppy to "Mand" to ask for things
Emotional Resiliency Exercises
Crate Training Introduction
All About Fear Periods
Continue to introduce scary and challenging things to help with recovery from fear
Breed Appropriate Health Testing
Transition to Adult Recall
Shaping Puppies to Prevent Resource Guarding
How to Prevent Biting
Potty Training Fundamentals
Resource Guarding Training
Reward Based Training -- Why it works best
Walking on a Leash
Crate Training and Preventing Separation Anxiety
Advanced Automatic Sit (Manding)
Major Fear Period Arrives
Sit to ask for things/Manding
Crate Training in full swing
Attention to Behavior
Each puppy is evaluated to decide which quality they will be. Deciding on a quality will help us place them in the appropriate homes. Show Quality puppies are place on full registration and are able to be bred in the future (once CHIC Certified and age appropriate) and must be shown in some type of event (such as conformation, agility, lure coursing, rally, obedience, etc) Pet Quality puppies, although no more or less important, are simply spayed and neutered and are not allowed to reproduce. Both "Qualities" are companions and are loved the same. However we try to place puppies into Quality Groups because we dont want a puppy who could win the Westminster end up spayed in a pet home, and vice versa, we dont want a dog who shouldnt be bred, due to certain reasons, be placed in a show/breeding home.